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Chamonix Mountain Guides

CHAMONIX MOUNTAINEERING CLASSICS
Les Aiguilles Rock Course: 3-5 days duration

Discover the golden granite of Chamonix's finest multi-pitch rock climbs. Chamonix is known for its excellent, sheer walls of protogine granite soaring for almost 4000 unbroken feet. In a 3 -7 day long course, Antoine Savelli guides climbers through a series of climbs designed to develop confidence and endurance on longer and more challenging alpine ascents using unique training methodologies to enhance your opportunities to succeed and surpass your expectations. The region's classics range from 6 to 48 pitches of grades IV, V and VI (American grades 5.8 - 5.10) . Some of the classics include:

AIGUILLE DU MIDI
This face of crimson granite is a perfect initiation into the vertical world of Chamonix. We begin with a ride on the world's highest tram, the Aiguille du Midi, to 3800 meters and descend along a dramatic arete to the base of the south face on to the Rebuffat route, a nine pitch, 5.9 gem topping at the summit of a razor sharp needle. Climbers need to be in good physical form and have had some technical climbing experience.

Route: Aiguille Du Midi, Rébuffat
Level: advanced
Dates: June 20-22; July 4-6 & 25-27; Aug. 8-10 & 15-17

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AIGUILLE DU PEIGNE
An 18 pitch 5.9 classic, the Vaucher route is a magical, natural line culminating at 3400 meters. The famous Lepiney Crack, first climbed in the 20's, is the challenging finish to one of Chamonix's most scenic Aiguilles overlooking Mt. Blanc, the Dru, the Grepon and La Blaitiere. This tour is an excellent introduction for longer routes.

Route: Aiguille Du Peigne, Vaucher or Maillon Manquant
Level: advanced to expert
Dates: July 4-6; Aug. 18-20; Sep. 5-7


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Climbing in ChamonixTHE DRU
This magical spire of 38 pitches offers spectacular crack climbing. The famous American Direct route is accessed from the Grand Montets tram and a glacier approach. Climbers should be prepared for a long grade VI and be in top physical form and comfortable on 5.10 to 5.11 rock climbs. The length of the climb and its altitude of almost 4000 meters increases its difficulty substantially. Antoine's fastest on sight 5 1/2 solo of the American Direct in 1991 still stands today!

Route: Aiguille Du Dru, American Direct
Level: elite
Dates: July 25-29


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Season: July - August

ALPINE 4,000 METER PEAKS
If your aspirations are to summit Europe's grandest, tall peaks, Antoine Savelli can guide you along the most spectacular, difficult technical routes. A typical week might include two days of snow and rock techniques, and instruction in glacial travel and rope management and the opportunity to ascend two or three summits, depending on conditions. Some of the Alp's most coveted alpine goals can be reached from Chamonix, Zermatt, and Grindelwald. The most famous peaks, but certainly not the entire list (our favorites include an array of lesser known peaks), include:

Mont Blanc MONT BLANC
Western Europe's highest peak is Mont Blanc, at 4807 meters a goal of climbers worldwide. The Aiguilles de Peuterey Integral route is 120 pitches of semi-technical (5.4- 5.8 rock with mixed climbing on top) climbing. This is the wild side of Mt. Blanc. Antoine's unique confidence building speed climbing techniques helps you surpass your expectations for such an endeavor.

Route: Mont-Blanc Integral Peuterey Ridge
Duration: 5 day
Level: elite
Dates: Aug. 8-12


Reservation Request

MATTERHORN
The north face of the Matterhorn is a mixed climb on an ultra classic route that requires the highest degree of proficiency on both snow and rock. The summit ridge is one of the most exposed in the Alps and overlooks the 4000 foot north face as well as a ring of impressive 4000 meter peaks. Antoine can make this undertaking a part of your reality if excellence and commitment is your cup of tea.

Route: Matterhorn North Face
Duration: 5 day
Level: elite
Dates: Sep. 19-23


Reservation Request

EIGER
Stay in a chalet in ChamonixThe Eiger Nordwand is one of the most infamous climbs in the Alps. Its 6,000 foot face requires all the techniques of alpinism, stamina and endurance, and excellent freeze conditions. The north face of all the north faces in the Alps! Not for the faint hearted! An extreme challenge worthy of contemplation for the very best. Antoine screens his clients to the upmost, and the tiniest detail is always exhausted to bring about every chance for a 'Nordwand' summit bid.

Route: Eiger North Face
Duration: 5 day
Level: elite
Dates: Oct.17-21


Reservation Request

GRANDES JORASSES
The most coveted technical north face overlooking the Mer du Glace outside of Chamonix offers 48 pitches of pure delight on a spur of granite with mixed climbing on the top. A must for preparation for technical Himalayan peaks. Antoine's epic on sight 1991 7 hour solo of the Walker Spur still stands as the world's fastest. Photo featured to the right.

Route: Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur
Duration: 5 day
Level: elite
Dates: July 18-22


Reservation Request

Season: July - September

What is included: all courses include rentals (when needed), local transportation (lifts, ground transportation), meals in huts and hut sleep overs as needed as well as community equipment. Otherwise, you are responsible for your own lodging as well as meals outside course events in the various alpine resorts, or if day trips do not require hut sleep overs, lifts, and hut meals. A comprehensive equipment list tailored to your course will be provided as soon as you make your reservation.

Deposit: a 50% deposit is required 60 days prior to course initiation to insure that your space is secured. Balance: is due 30 days prior to course initiation. Last minute reservations: are paid in full with a 10% augmentation fee on top of guide fees when space is available. No exceptions allowed.

Cancellation policy: refunds are possible up to 30 days prior to course initiation. Otherwise no refunds are possible. Travel insurance is highly recommended for that purpose. If Chamonix Alpine Adventures cancels a course due to bad conditions, or participant unfit to continue, no refunds are possible. Credit to a future course may be considered under exceptional circumstances.