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Antoine Savelli
Colorado Climbing & Chamonix Mountain Guide

Antoine soloing Supercrack, Indian Creek, UtahAntoine Savelli is a self-taught climber who has made ascents around the world and encountered many different approaches and philosophies to climbing. Blending his own personal successes in the different disciplines of the mountain sports with the knowledge he has gained from prominent climbers worldwide, he has developed a unique, creative and flexible approach to the mountain sports that enables others to progress and surpass their expectations. His extensive knowledge of anatomy, training regimes, and sports psychology helps his students excel rapidly. His training program is individualized and highly personal.

Savelli holds the onsight solo record of 5 1/2 hours on the American Direct Route on the Dru and the onsight solo record on the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses of 7 hours. His other accomplishments include a one day ascent of the Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite and a world onsight solo record of 3 1/2 hours of the ice-climb, Slipstream. He also holds the record for the fastest guided ascent of the Northwest Face of Half Dome. His student had been climbing for only two years and had never aid climbed before; together they made the ascent in only 10 hours. He has also guided the west rib of McKinley.

Come join Antoine Savelli and Chamonix Alpine Adventures. Experience firsthand his philosophy: "Le guide pourvoi les meilleurs moyens pour atteindre le but"-- He interprets: "I am here to provide the best means to reach the goal. But, the means clearly becomes the goal after one sees that the ascent involves an intricately woven blend of sophisticated techniques, experience in the mountains, spontaneous judgment and creative adaptation to the demands of the environment and the makeup of the student. That intricately woven blend translates into many means towards achieving a climbing goal. I believe that Acute Sensorial Perception-- sort of a sixth sense-- is one of the means: it is my shield when facing adversity in the most compelling situations, alone or with a group in the mountains."